The Enrichment Toys Every Dog Parent Should Know About (And Why They Actually Work)

Written By Lavender Garden Puppy & Dog Training, Derby

If you've ever Googled "how do I stop my dog from destroying the house" or "why is my dog so full on all the time," there's a good chance someone has told you to try enrichment toys.

And they're right. But not always for the reasons you might think.

Enrichment isn't just about keeping your dog busy. It's not a distraction technique or a way to tire them out so you can have five minutes of peace (though honestly, that's a bonus). Done well, enrichment works at a deeper level. It gives your dog an outlet for the behaviours they're biologically wired to do, sniffing, chewing, licking, foraging, problem-solving, and when those needs are met consistently, something shifts. The frantic edge softens. The zoomies reduce. The counter-surfing stops feeling so urgent to them.

That's because a dog whose instincts are regularly met is a dog who isn't walking around in a state of low-level frustration all day.

And frustration, in dogs, shows up in all sorts of ways. Barking, nipping, pulling on the lead, difficulty settling, reactivity. A lot of the behaviours owners find hardest to live with are frustration behaviours. Not "naughtiness." Not stubbornness. Just a nervous system that hasn't had what it needed.

Enrichment is one of the most underrated tools in the toolkit, and the good news is it doesn't have to be complicated or expensive.

Here's what I actually recommend, and why.

A Note Before We Get Into the Products

I'll flag throughout this post whether something is a product I personally use or one I recommend based on client results and training knowledge. I'll also be honest where I have caveats, because some products get a lot of hype and the reality is a bit more nuanced.

This post contains affiliate links. If you buy through my links I may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I'd genuinely point a client towards.

Lick Mats

If I had to pick one enrichment item to recommend to every single dog parent, it would probably be a lickmat.

The act of licking has a genuine physiological effect on dogs. It activates the parasympathetic nervous system (the rest and digest state) and can help a dog move out of an activated, stressed, or frustrated state. That's not marketing copy, that's how the nervous system works.

This makes lickmats genuinely useful in specific situations: before a vet visit, during a bath or grooming session, when guests arrive and your dog needs somewhere to redirect their energy, or during thunderstorms and fireworks.

You can spread them with wet food, plain yoghurt (check it's xylitol-free), mashed banana, peanut butter (again, xylitol-free), pumpkin puree, or soaked kibble. Freeze them for a longer-lasting version and a bit more of a challenge (for puppies or dogs who get super frustrated, I’d not recommend freezing yet, as this can cause the complete opposite feelings we want them to have!)

What I recommend: The LickiMat range is well established and widely available. The Tuff range and the Wobble are good starting points. The Wobble adds a bit of movement which increases the engagement level slightly (my dog, Oliver, loves his Wobble!). Trainer recommended and personally used.

[AFFILIATE LINK - LICKMAT TUFF: https://amzn.to/3Q1J2nT ]

[AFFILIATE LINK: LickiMat Wobble]

Head to to the bottom of the blog for my simple Lickmat recipe book link!!

Kongs and Stuffable Toys

The Kong Classic has been around for decades and there's a reason trainers keep recommending it. It's durable, dishwasher safe, and endlessly versatile. You can stuff it with almost anything, freeze it, and hand it to your dog as a 20-minute settled activity.

The key thing most people miss with Kongs is that they give up too easily if the stuffing is too hard to get out. Start with something easy (soft wet food, a smear of something sticky at the opening) and gradually increase the difficulty as your dog figures out the game - or pop some kibble at the bottom and then fill the top with wet stuff. If it's too frustrating too soon, they'll lose interest and you'll lose the tool.

For puppies, the puppy Kong (softer rubber) is worth getting over the standard version. For power chewers, the black Kong is the one you want.

What I recommend: Kong Classic for most adult dogs, Puppy Kong for pups under 6 months, Kong Extreme (black) for strong chewers. Trainer recommended and personally used.

[AFFILIATE LINK: Kong Classic - choose from Small, Medium or Large]

[AFFILIATE LINK: Kong Puppy] - choose between different sizes and colours

[AFFILIATE LINK: Kong Extreme] - choose from S, M, L or XL

Beyond Kongs, there are other stuffable toys worth exploring. The West Paw Toppl is a popular alternative with a wider opening (easier to stuff, easier to clean) and comes in sizes that can be connected together for more of a challenge.

[AFFILIATE LINK: West Paw Toppl]

Snuffle Mats

Sniffing is one of the most cognitively tiring things a dog can do, in the best possible way. Fifteen minutes of proper sniff work can be more satisfying for a dog than a 45-minute walk, because it engages the part of their brain that is literally built for this.

A snuffle mat hides food among fabric layers or rubber nodules and encourages the dog to use their nose to find it. It's slow, calm, and incredibly effective for dogs who are over-threshold, wound up, or struggling to settle.

I particularly recommend these for reactive dogs, dogs recovering from surgery or injury (when physical exercise is restricted), puppies learning to settle, and any dog who tends to eat too fast.

Don’t be discouraged if your dog figures out that tipping it over gets them the food faster - you know you have a great problem solver for a dog, make the sniffing more challenging by hiding the snuffle mat for them to find instead!

What I recommend: There are lots of brands on Amazon and quality varies. Look for ones with a non-slip base and tight fabric attachments (loose bits can be chewed off and swallowed). I'd suggest looking for ones with good reviews and a solid rubber backing rather than the cheapest option available. Trainer recommended and used.

[AFFILIATE LINK: Snuffle Mat]

Puzzle Feeders

If your dog wolfs down their meals in under thirty seconds and then follows you around looking for more, a puzzle feeder is worth considering.

These range from simple (a slow feeder bowl with raised sections) to genuinely complex multi-step puzzles. The principle is the same: the dog works for their food, which slows them down, engages their brain, and builds a bit of that problem-solving confidence. It’s also a brilliant way to introduce frustration tolerance to puppies!

A word of honesty here: some puzzle feeders on the market are overpriced for what they are, and some dogs figure them out in minutes and then lose interest. I'd suggest starting simple and cheaper to see how your dog takes to the concept before investing in anything fancy.

What I recommend: A basic slow feeder bowl is a good starting point for fast eaters. The Nina Ottosson range (available on Amazon) is well made and has a range of difficulty levels if your dog takes to puzzles well. Trainer recommended and used.

[AFFILIATE LINK: Slow Feeder Bowl]

This one is great to start puppies with: LICKIN’ LAYERS

[AFFILIATE LINK: Nina Ottosson Puzzle Feeder] - use this one to help build frustration tolerance

Scatter Feeding

This one isn't a product, it's a technique, and I'm including it because it's one of the most effective enrichment tools I use with clients and it costs nothing.

Instead of feeding your dog from a bowl for every single meal, scatter their kibble across the grass (or a snuffle mat, or a towel) and let them sniff it out. It takes a 30-second mealtime and turns it into 10 to 15 minutes of calm, focused sniff work.

For reactive dogs especially, scatter feeding before a walk or after a stressful event can help bring the nervous system down a level before you ask anything more of them.

If your dog doesn’t engage with this at the start, go slow, start in a small area with high value smelly treats and help guide them back to sniff (they are likely confused, the food isn’t high value enough, or think they’re done when they disengage) - be patient and you’ll see them engage fully in this over time.

Chew Items (Enrichment Through Chewing)

Chewing is a self-soothing behaviour. It releases endorphins, reduces cortisol, and gives dogs a physical outlet that's genuinely calming rather than stimulating.

This is partly why puppies chew. It's not mischief. It's biology.

Providing appropriate chew items consistently means your dog is less likely to redirect that need onto your furniture, your shoes, or your hands.

For longer-lasting chew options specifically, as a starting point for enrichment purposes: rubber chew toys (Kong, Nylabone for moderate chewers), stuffed Kongs (frozen), and natural chews like air dried beef, ostrich, lamb, or dried fish skins are all worth having in rotation.

Not sure what chews your dog enjoys most? Try my Little Paws Premium Picks Selection Box for just £25 - https://lavendergardenanimalservices.co.uk/shop/p/puppy-treat-hamper-box

How to Introduce Enrichment Properly

One thing I see a lot is dog parents buying a puzzle feeder or a lick mat, their dog ignoring it or getting frustrated, and then deciding enrichment "doesn't work for my dog."

Usually the issue isn't the dog. It's the introduction.

A few principles that help:

Start easy. The first time should be almost embarrassingly simple. You want the dog to succeed quickly and feel good about it. Confidence builds engagement.

Don't hover. Some dogs find it harder to settle into an activity if you're watching them. Put it down and move away slightly.

Rotate items. Novelty matters. A snuffle mat that's out 24/7 every day loses its appeal. Keep a rotation of three or four items and swap them out so each one feels fresh.

Match the activity to the energy level. A lick mat is for a dog who needs to come down. A puzzle feeder is for a dog who's in a calm baseline state. Giving a highly activated dog a fiddly puzzle often ends in frustration, not engagement.

A Quick Summary

1. Lick Mat Best for: calming, pre-stressor prep Difficulty: Easy

2. Stuffed Kong (frozen) Best for: settling, crate time Difficulty: Easy to Medium

3. West Paw TopplBest for: settling, an alternative to the Kong with a wider opening Difficulty: Easy to Medium

4. Snuffle MatBest for: sniff work, post-exercise calm, reactive dogs Difficulty: Easy

5. Puzzle FeederBest for: mental stimulation, fast eaters Difficulty: Medium to Hard

6. Scatter FeedingBest for: free, daily enrichment, nervous system regulation Difficulty: Easy

No product needed, just their daily kibble (or high value treats) and a patch of grass.

Want more?

Want some ideas on what to use on your dog’s lick mat or Kong? Download my simple lickmat recipe book: HERE

Have questions about which enrichment tools might suit your dog specifically?

Contact me: info@lavendergardenanimalservices.co.uk or WhatsApp: 07476 903840

Lavender Garden Puppy & Dog Training, Derby https://www.lavendergardenanimalservices.co.uk
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